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Aeromotive Eliminator Install

Backstory- My holley 12-1800 died, and I needed a replacement which could handle the occasional trip to work.

Info

This post was originally published in 2018, and has been adopted to this static-site from wordpress. The build has since been retired.

The shop which I purchased the 12-1800 from, was able to swap me out a new eliminator fuel pump.

After fully reading the documentation and requirements for the new pump, I determined I would need to add a sump to my existing fuel tank, upgrade the feed lines to -12AN, and implement a system for PWM control during normal driving to prevent fuel overheating.

Parts ordered:

Parts needed for the new fuel pump and filter. Parts needed for the new fuel pump, and filter.

Big sump welded onto fuel tank. Big sump. If there is fuel in the tank, there is fuel in the sump.

For the sump- I welded on a 1 foot section of my old, broken driveshaft. Since the tank is mounted in the bed of the truck, there is more then adequate room for this.

For the PWM setup, I made a simple, stupid table in the holley EFI.

Basically, under moderate throttle, or boost, the pump goes to 100%. I have since improved.

PWM config in Holley EFI. Very Simple, Stupid PWM config in the Holley.

For parts, You will need a solid state relay, and a flyback diode. Both of these parts are extremely important. A regular relay will burn up. Without a flyback diode, you will burn up your solid state relay from the inductance.

Solid state relay and flyback diode.

The solid state relay is important- A normal relay isn't meant to switch a PWM signal.

The flyback diode is also very important- It keeps the inductance from the pump from frying your solid state relay.

At the current time, I am using this relay:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU5FPE

One note- check whether your relay is normally open, or normally closed. In my case- this one is normally open. So, a 100% PWM signal, turns the pump off. 0% PWM signal, is max.

For the flyback diode, I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056RHMCG

It is wired from the Pump (+) to the (-) terminal. When a large spike is created from the pump spinning down, it "eats" the excess current.

I did not remember to take pictures of the wiring diagram, or the wiring.

One year follow-up

After one year of street driving- I can say this setup has held solid with no issues. I did adjust the PWM config in the holley to not be based on TPS.