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Installing Gauges on Project Ram.

This is the 2nd part of the Project Ram Series

Image showing the completed result.

If you plan on modifying a diesel, the single most important modification you can do... is to have proper gauges.

If you add adding fuel, your EGTs will increase. If your EGTs go too high, your engine dies.

If your lift pump cannot keep up, you will have a ton of issues dialing in your pump. A fuel pressure gauge monitors this.

If your turbo is not working, You will either make no power, or you will have EGTs through the roof.

For me- the three metrics I need to know are Boost, EGTs, and Fuel Pressure.

Parts Used

Gauges - Glowshift

For gauges, I used a kit from GlowShift, specifically for a 1994-1997 Dodge Ram, with a Cummins.

Image showing the listing on amazon

It included the pillar, the gauges, sensors, and almost everything required.

As a note- I am not at all sponsored by Glowshift. However, I would 100% buy this again. The instructions were top-notch, and almost everything was required.

Drill bits & Tap

You will need a 1/8" NPT 27 Tap.

I used my Harbor Freight Set which worked just fine.

If, you don't want to buy an entire set (for only 20$), You can buy a single tap from amazon.

Amazon: Bosch BPT18F27 1/8" - 27 Tap1

Or order an entire Amazon: Tap and Die Set1.

But.... in either case, just make sure you have a 1/8" - 27 tap. You will need it to install the EGT sensor. Everything else was included.

Pen Magnet

You will need a tiny pen magnet.

Amazon: Pen Magnets

The magnet will need to be able to fit into the 1/8"-27 hole we are drilling into the exhaust manifold. Alternatively, you can remove the turbo while drilling the hole, and make sure to remove all of the iron shavings.

Installing the gauges

All of the steps, are all documented in a nice installation guide. As such- there isn't a ton I can add that is not already documented better already in their book.

Picture showing the install guide

Installing the sensors and sensor lines

Installing EGT Sensor

Start with using a punch, to make a hole slightly left of center, on the collector of the exhaust manifold.

Then, we will start drilling progressively stepping up the size, until we reach 11/32"

Picturing showing me drilling the hole. Pen magnet is catching shavings.

As noted before- You will either want a pen magnet, or you will need to remove the turbo to ensure you remove all of the metal shavings.

Picture showing metal shavings attracted to the pen magnet

After you have drilled the hole to 11/32", we will need to tap it using a 1/8-27 tap. I used a 1/4" extension to make it a bit easier to tap. Make sure to use oil, or cutting fluid.

Imagine showing me running a tap through the hole

I spent another 10 minutes running my pen magnet inside of the hole, until no more metal was sticking to my magnet.

Image showing even more metal shavings sticking to the pen magnet

After the hole was drilled and tapped... and all of the shavings were removed, the EGT sensor is installed.

Image showing the EGT sensor installed into the exhaust manifold.

Route the cables back to the drivers side. There- will be two more items we will run into the firewall together.

Installing the fuel pressure sensor

On the intake side of the engine (right), we will start installing the fuel pressure sensor.

I strongly would recommend removing the intake horn. Four bolts on the intake, one bolt for the dipstick, and loosen the clamp holding on the intake pipe. All 10mm bolts. 18 ft-lbs of torque.

Image showing the intake manifold out of the way

With the horn out of the way, we can see the fuel line. The kit includes a new banjo fitting which the sensor will mount into.

Start by removing the old banjo bolt.

Image of the P-Pump, with the fuel banjo bolt circled in a red outline

And, here is the new banjo bolt, included in the kit... with the fuel pressure sensor already installed.

Image showing the new banjo bolt with the fuel pressure sensor installed

Air Pressure Line

Here- is where I am going to deviate from the directions.

As- I have already installed it, as documented, and went through my AFC modifications.... I came back and changed how the air line was connected.

Glowshift, AFC Live, and the DPP Boost controller all provides tiny 1/8" or 5/32" pressure lines. The end result- will be multiple lines running in/out of the cab.

I ran into an issue where a leak in the AFC, was essentially preventing anything from working. I installed- went and installed a much larger 3/8" supply line, into a manifold mounted in the cab. From this manifold- I feed the three devices requiring pressure.

In addition to this note- the fitting provided by Glowshift is not a PTC (Push to Connect) Fitting. I used all PTC fittings, which makes life quite a bit easier. They fit snug and secure without leaking, and you can non-destructively remove a line without needing tools, effortlessly.

I'd recommend you take the same approach. If, you don't plan on running AFC Live, the boost controller, or anything else, and instead just want gauges, then visit Amazon and pick up 1/8" NPT -> 1/8" Tube PTC Fittings x 101. This is a link to the 1/8" push to connect elbow fitting.

I specifically linked elbow fittings, as the space in front of the manifold ports is pretty tight, unless you drill/tap a new hole. Straight fittings do not leave much room.

There- is not a lot to document for installing the air line- However, I do have this picture taken days later while working on the AFC, which shows the original install.

Picture showing the original install

However, here is what it looks like after I replaced it with a 3/8" PTC elbow.

Image showing the bigger 3/8" airline fitting

Routing Wires / Hoses

After you have the wires for the EGT, and Fuel Pressure Sensor, as well as the air-line for the boost gauge, you will need to run those into the cab. On the drivers side, to the right of the brake booster is a large grommet which can be used.

You may need to use a screwdriver to help poke a hole for running your cables.

I used some cable shroud to make it look nice and neat.

Image showing the lines wrapped in cable shroud, passed into the cab

The wrap I used, was Polyethylene cable wrap, which I use for organizing cables in the house. Its rated for -103 to 257 degrees, with an advertised melting temp of 446. I don't believe it will have any issues.

If, you wanted to use this one, you can find it here: Amazon: 1/2" Wire Loom1

Interior Wiring

I did deviate slightly from the manual here. The manual uses adapters which would fit into the fuse-box, and uses splice connectors.

I personally, do not like using splice connectors, and instead, preferred to solder, and heat shrink my connections.

Image showing my splice into the "lights" wire

Instead of tapping into the radio-fuse, I instead soldered directly to the power wire running to the radio.

Image showing my solder connection to the power wire on the back of the radio.

Info

I realize some people are die-hard cable-nut fans, or prefer to crimp their connections.

I realize, some people claim solder joints will fail due to the vibrations.

I will say, in my 20 or so years doing automotive projects, installing high-end car stereos, massive amplifiers, and even completely rewiring a truck from scratch- I have had many bad crimps fail. I have had many splice connectors make an unmaintainable mess of a factory hardness. I have had bad connections from wire nuts. I have never had one of my solder joints fail.

So- if you are one of the crowds who strongly frowns upon solder joints- I don't care. You do you. You aren't working on my project, and I am not working on your project. I will do what works best for me.

That note being said, I soldered all of my connections, and used heat-shrink around the solder joints. I use solder flux when soldering.

Mounting the Gauges

There, is not a lot to add here, that is not covered in the manual.

But- when you remove the A-Pillar trim, slide it towards the right/rear of the truck. It "slides" off. Otherwise.... you will break it, like I did.

As- you can tell in this picture- there is a lot of two-part epoxy around the mounts. So- keep that in mind.

Image showing the rear of my factory trim, with lots of two-part epoxy holding it together.

After, installing the gauges into the pod, you will have a lovely mess of wires. Carefully wrap these with zip-ties, and route towards the bottom.

Image showing the rear of the gauge pod.... lots of unorganized wires, and two party epoxy glueing the factory mounts back on

And then you should be able to install the gauges.

Picture showing the gauges installed

Finished

And, after a few hours of installing sensors, running wires and cables.... Its all done.

Image showing the completed result.

If- you read my note on the pressure lines- I will note the manifold I added is visible in the middle of the dash.

Next up: AFC/Fueling Modifications

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